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26th April 2017

Hands-On With Smooth Leather Straps IWC Portugieser Constant-Force Tourbillon Fake Watches

The compact and cleverly designed IWC tourbillon with integrated constant force returns.

Although featuring a constant force tourbillon, moon phase and a four-day power reserve, the best-selling silver Arabic numerals replica IWC Portugieser Constant-Force Tourbillon watch is a dialled down version of the most complicated (and expensive) IWC wristwatch ever made, the Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia introduced in 2011.

Powered by the same calibre 94800 found in the discontinued Ingenieur with the same features, the durable copy IWC Portugieser Constant-Force Tourbillon has an aperture at nine o’clock that reveals the centrepiece of the movement, a large tourbillon regulator.

Though the tourbillon itself is large, the cage measures almost the radius of the dial and the balance wheel is only slightly smaller, the construction is compact, with the constant force mechanism integrated into the tourbillon.

Stainless Steel Cases IWC Portugieser Constant-Force Tourbillon Replica Watches

Developed in collaboration with complications developer Chronode – founder Jean-Francois Mojon worked at IWC for a decade before starting Chronode – the tourbillon has a tiny spring mounted under the escape wheel.

Once a second this spring accumulates and releases power from the mainspring, ensuring that the escapement is driven by a small, steady supply of energy. This in turn keep the balance beating at a constant amplitude, and also gives the tourbillon cage a rotation that moves in one-second steps.

That only holds for the first two days of the 96-hour power reserve, when the mainspring is sufficiently wound to provide enough power to keep the constant force mechanism going at an optimal rate. Once the two-day mark is passed, the constant force disengages and the tourbillon functions like a conventional tourbillon.

The constant force spring is visible on the left, under the escape wheel

At one o’clock is the double hemisphere moon phase, with the moon phase disc cast to resemble the cratered surface of the Moon. And just below that is the power reserve display.

Unlike the Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia that incorporated a star chart on the back of the watch, which is why it is an enormous 17.5mm in height, the Swiss 46mm copy IWC Portugieser Constant-Force Tourbillon is a relatively slim 13mm, even with the high domed sapphire crystal.

The case is a large 46mm, which gives it relatively elegant proportions though it is still a large watch.

The back reveals the movement and its workmanlike finish. Historically IWC has never been associated with decorative finishing – clever and concise engineering was its thing – so the functional appearance of the movement is in keeping with the brand’s identity.

Even if not fancy the movement is attractive, with variation of the surfaces finishes that create an appealing contrast. The overall finishing is careful, albeit applied by machine.

That being said, the styling of the movement, which is reminiscent of an automobile engine, doesn’t quite suit the classical design on the front. And that explanation for that is likely that the calibre 94800 was originally designed for the Ingenieur Constant-Force Tourbillon, a high octane-high complication.

The modern fake IWC Portugieser Constant-Force Tourbillon is customisable, with the client able to mix and match for the case, dial and strap. The case is available in red gold or platinum, with the choice of four metallic finish dial colours, as well as a wide range of straps. Further customisation beyond the options offered is possible, but likely at significant additional cost.

The prototype of the sturdy copy IWC Portugieser Constant-Force Tourbillon is in stainless steel, which unfortunately is not an option for the watch. The lightness of the steel case makes it more wearable than the precious metal versions.

Price and availability

The Portugieser Constant-Force Tourbillon (ref. IW5901) is made to order, priced at S$325,000 in red gold and S$360,000 in platinum. Those are equivalent to US$230,000 and US$260,000 respectively.

22nd April 201722nd April 2017

Privée Pleasures: Worthy Replica Cartier Paris Collection Watches For Appreciation

Originally created to give collectors a chance to own vintage-looking Cartier watches, the timepieces in Collection Privée Cartier Paris have become highly sought after in their own right.

The Fine Watchmaking Collection, Cartier’s current high-end watch line, is a stunning series comprising complicated watches, which showcase the maison’s high-tech horology. The collection is made in Cartier’s own 30,000 square meter manufacture in La Chaud-de-Fonds and represents the very best that the brand has to offer today.

Collection Privée Cartier Paris (CPCP), on the other hand, was much more a celebration of what the maison had achieved in design through the 20th century. The collection, which ran from 1998 to 2008, was based on the legendary case designs that the brand is so famous for. It fulfilled a desire on the part of collectors for vintage-looking best-quality fake Cartier watches online, with historic details and a movement belonging to the finest Swiss watchmaking tradition.

All movements within the CPCP series were from brands like Piaget, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Gérald Genta, Techniques Horlogères Appliquées (THA) and Frédéric Piguet, and hand-assembled and inspected by a master watchmaker. high-performance copy Cartier took these high-grade movements and added its own finishing, such as the traditional Côtes de Genève motif and the interlaced Cartier double “C”. Many watches in the CPCP series had a display caseback to show the decoration of the movement, which became one of the signature elements of the CPCP collection.

The watch faces were no less impressive, with each dial made in 18ct gold, covered with a silver layer and traditional guilloché varying from a very fine pattern on the smaller Santos-Dumont watches, to a more prominent design on the larger Tortue models. The rail track, Roman numerals and markings were all stamped directly on to the dial.

Many of Cartier’s early 20th-century watches had the word “PARIS” inscribed underneath the brand name, which gave the dial something extra that became much-sought after by collectors. In response, Cartier added the same word to almost all CPCP watches. Just one model had a dial without “PARIS” on it – the Tank Cintrée with Arabic numerals produced in both yellow gold and platinum. (The same version with Roman numerals came with the familiar inscription.)

Coming Up Roses

Another typical CPCP design feature that characterised the collection was the central rose motif. Just a few of the watches from the first CPCP launch in 1998, like the Santos Dumont, Tank Américaine, Tonneau and Tank Obus were delivered without the rose, but those models, relaunched in the following years, were redesigned to include the flower.

The rose motif and the “PARIS” engraving were important features that helped to push the series to another level; collectors always mention these details when CPCP is discussed. The same thing happened with the numbering on the back. During the first year, some models were delivered with standard numbering, while from the second year onwards, all models had an individual numbering and an indication of the number produced – of particular interest when the watch is a limited edition.

One of the stand-out models in the CPCP collection is, without a doubt, the Tank Louis Cartier, produced in its historic dimensions of 33.5mm by 25.5mm in yellow gold and in platinum. The watch has baton-style hands and is powered with the ultra-slim Cal. 021MC manual-winding movement by Piaget; the crown is set with an impressive sapphire. In 2006, that same watch was released as the Louis Cartier XL, powered by Piaget’s hand-wound 9701MC movement, visible through the display caseback of the 30mm by 39mm, rectangular rose-gold or platinum case. It was said that the total number of watches produced in pink gold remained below 300 pieces, while no more than 50 pieces were made in platinum. Unfortunately, this model was not a numbered limited edition.

The smallest CPCP men’s model was a re-issue of the Santos-Dumont 1913 in yellow gold, produced in a limited edition of 100 examples. Here, Cartier went a step further and supplied the watch with a vintage-style, non-adjustable folding buckle. The strap had to be custom-made to fit the client’s wrist. The dimensions of the case were 24mm by 34mm, and the timepiece was supplied with the 9780MC Jaeger-LeCoultre movement. It also had a stunning, not-often-seen, facet-cut sapphire crystal. A slightly larger Santos-Dumont at 27mm by 36mm was also available in platinum and yellow gold, powered by a hand-wound mechanical 021MC H3 Frédéric Piguet movement. Both models have Breguet hands and a closed caseback. And of course, “PARIS” was inscribed below the brand name.

Dating back to 1928, the monopoussoir complication was one of the first complications Cartier developed. The highly sought-after Tortue MP was the first model to incorporate this complication, and Cartier did a really good re-issue in yellow gold for the first CPCP release – almost like the original model, but with a slightly larger and more contemporary case. The comeback of the Tank Mono Poussoir was even more spectacular – a stunning but once-completely-unknown Tank dating back to 1935 that now became available in a limited edition of 100 pieces each in pink and white gold. The Tortue MP and the Tank MP shared the same 045MC movement, specially developed by François-Paul Journe, Denis Flageollet and Vianney Halter for these top copy Cartier models – and also used in the De Bethune DB1 monopusher chronograph.

Blue Hands Copy Cartier Paris Collection Watches

Tales Of The Unexpected

Cartier did not do much to publicise the Collection Privée and we can only guess at the reason. But it looks like the low-production series sold out very quickly. The limited editions were usually produced in less than 100 pieces and the non-limited editions often did not number more than 250 to 300 pieces. At the time the internet was not the fount of all watch knowledge that it is today and there were certainly no watch blogs, so it was not as easy for collectors to find out what new models had been launched. The boutiques were supplied with a little brochure, but it was not updated on an annual basis as most contemporary catalogues are.

To make it even more confusing, some CPCP models were launched only in a certain territory or for a special occasion – for instance, the Tank Chinoise Double Fuseau that was made for China had all the typical CPCP details like the rose and “PARIS” on the dial, and was produced in 100 pieces each, in pink and white gold. But outside of Asia, no one was aware of its existence. It was a remarkable travel watch, specifically created to celebrate the relations between France and China.

Other amazing examples were the few pieces that were exclusively sold by the Cartier flagship store at 13 Rue de la Paix. The Paris boutique had long been closed for renovations, and when it reopened in 1999, with huge parties to celebrate its 100th anniversary, there were a few very special watches made to commemorate the occasion. One of the most well-known and important pieces was the Tortue Mono Poussoir in white gold, with a salmon-coloured dial and a big Arabic numeral “13” – instead of a Roman numeral XII – and produced in an edition of just 13 pieces.

Much more bizarre was the Driver watch that dates back to 1936 and was barely launched commercially. It was a very small and strangely curved watch that measured just 19mm by 34mm. Due to that curved shape and the fact that the folding buckle is attached to the case, it can only be worn on the side of the wrist; so when holding the steering wheel, there is no need to turn the wrist to check the time. It was a so-called “back winder”, which has a flat crown that sits on the back of the watch. The Driver had a salmon-coloured guilloché dial, with a large Arabic “13”, just like the Tortue Mono Poussoir.

An interesting addition to the Collection Privée came with the release of the Tank à Vis, which was presented as a new model with a whole new name. In fact, the Tank à Vis – launched as a series of four different models – was a modern interpretation of the Tank Étanche, with a similar case design. This new model is the only Tank in the collection that has a bezel, but the Cartier designers created a small difference between the vintage and the new model, and gave the Tank à Vis four screws on the lunette.

Cartier did a really nice job with the relaunch of the Tank Asymétrique and the Tonneau. The Tank Asymétrique – or Parallélogramme, as it was called in the 1930s – was a driver’s watch that was known for its various models with different lug constructions. The bridge constructions that Cartier chose for the Collection Privée were by far the most gorgeous of the Asymétrique collection. With its Breguet-styled hands and larger case in yellow gold, the limited-edition series – a mere 150 pieces – was sold out in a very short time.

Male Models

In its early years, the Tonneau was a very popular and dandy model, but fell out of favour in the 1980s, mainly because the case and very narrow strap were just too damn elegant. For the CPCP series, elegant fake Cartier enlarged the case of the Tonneau, gave it all the historical details – like the rose and Breguet-styled hands – and came up with a very smart construction to make the strap wider. Instead of keeping the leather strap at the same width throughout, it became 1mm wider beyond the lugs. It gave the strap a much wider appearance, and the watch became a cool man’s timepiece that met the demand for larger and more masculine models.

CPCP was cheap copy Cartier’s first serious attempt to reach the male watch consumer/collector, and it was the foundation of haute horlogerie on a larger scale; but it also became the start of something else – a new extraordinary way of packaging watches that was soon followed by the entire industry. While men’s watches were usually sold in small and often square boxes at the beginning of the 1980s, the watches in the CPCP series came in rich red boxes that were three times as large, with room for cufflinks and rings. The inside was lined with black velvet; champagne-coloured if the watch was bought from the 13 Rue de la Paix store. Together with this large box, the new owner also received a smaller, polished hardwood presentation box, and a suede travel pouch with cloth and loupe. It is a handsome kit that one almost never receives when a CPCP watch is found at an auction or dealer. These wooden boxes are real collector’s items.

Cartier Paris Fake Watches With Black Roman Numerals

The collection came to an end in 2008 when Cartier realised that a high-end watch line could only be successful when all movements and parts are produced in-house at their own manufacture in La Chaux de-Fonds. That was also the year the Fine Watchmaking Collection was launched, starting with the 47mm Ballon Bleu de Cartier Flying Tourbillon that was pre-released in 2007, a few months before the official launch of the collection.

A huge amount of love was put into the watches, with a perfect eye making sure that the details were as close to those of the original historic pieces as possible without compromising collectors’ preferences for slightly larger and more wearable cases. When we consider that there are now over 300 Cartier mono-brand boutiques worldwide, plus all the concessions, the numbers produced in the past were really seriously limited. Collection Privée Cartier Paris replica watch with Swiss movements sales may be history now, but it has, without doubt, become the next best thing to collect when it comes to vintage Cartier timepieces.

When it comes to obtaining a pre-owned Collection Privée Cartier Paris watch, or perhaps a vintage watch from the 1930s, it is good to know that the new Manufacture Cartier is always able to restore the watch to its original beauty. From glass to crown, and from hairspring to balance wheel, knowing that the manufacture has this technological finesse makes the decision to buy a vintage watch less difficult.

19th April 2017

Unique Fake Rolex Sky-Dweller Watches Designed In Steel And Gold

The latest edition of Baselworld confirmed the obvious: two-tone is dead! Where generally at least a few brand carry the steel-gold variety, now there were no prominent watches offered in this combination. The exception to this rule is, however, Rolex, who introduced the replica Rolex Sky-Dweller watch with champagne dial online not only in steel but also in steel-gold.

So why did Rolex launch one of their most complicated, and may we say landmark, new models in a combination of metal’s that seems to be out of fashion? Because for Rolex steel-gold has traditionally been an important part of the brand identity. They even have a name of their own for it: Rolesor. In a way, Two-Tone Rolex fake watches with self-winding movements represent what Rolex is standing for. On the steel-side, they are robust, with their waterproof Oyster-cases and overengineered movements. On the gold-side, they are probably the most recognized watch in the world, and with the exception of the sports models, they always have this well-dressed look about them.

Two-Tone is also a bridge between the steel and full-gold models. They offer a more luxurious look over steel, yet with a far more friendlier price tag than the all gold model. It is a watch for people who want the best of both worlds, as well as a look that has become almost synonymous with Rolex.

Traditionally Rolex offers their Rolesor models with a champagne colored dial (although there are most certainly other options available). This enhances the gold-look of the watch, and quite frankly, also the Rolex-factor. It has a velvet look to it, and the ring for the second time zone is made in the same color. The date is kept in a lighter color so it is easy to read, although I would have loved to see it with the same champagne background as Swiss high-quality Rolex copy watch used to do with this type of dial. That being said, it adds a little bit of a more sportive feel to it, as it corresponds with the luminova filled hour indexes, as well as the white indicators of the annual calendar.

The top Rolex fake watch also has always been disconnected with fashion, and rather creates it own. That is why it seemingly pays very little attention to what other brands are doing, but rather focusses on their own customers. These customers have long been pleased by a brand that might be called conservative, yet shows time and time again how well in touch it is with its own DNA. And that DNA includes two-tone watches, even when this category is more of less dead to the rest of the industry.

15th April 2017

Hands-On With The Fake IWC Da Vinci Laureus Chronograph Watches With Blue Dials Online

The simplest chronograph in the new Da Vinci collection also happens to be a limited edition.

The redesigned IWC Da Vinci collection introduced earlier this year leaned towards big ticket complications and entry-level models, but not much in-between, except for the Da Vinci Chronograph “Laureus Sport for Good Foundation”. Steel and equipped with a proprietary movement, the Arabic numeral copy IWC Da Vinci Laureus Chronograph watch sales is the sort of reasonably accessible (with a bit of saving) wristwatch that IWC does well.

The Da Vinci Laureus the latest in an annual series of limited editions conceived to raise funds for the eponymous charity that brings sport to disadvantaged youth. This is the 11th in the series and more expensive than the average Laureus edition because of the proprietary calibre 89361 inside.

At 42mm in diameter and 14.5mm high, the Swiss steel case replica IWC Da Vinci Laureus is a largish watch, on the verge of being too big but not quite. It’s helped by the articulated lugs, which allow it to feel smaller on the wrist, though there is no escaping the height of the case.

One reason for the height is the domed sapphire crystal, a touch that’s meant to invoke vintage watches. The onion-shaped crown is probably meant to do the same, and it suits the overall design. Both chronograph pushers also have onion-shaped rings at their base, presumably to match the shape of the crown. But the buttons are not screw-down pushers, making the rings perhaps unnecessary aesthetic additions.

The case is entirely polished, front, back and even the lugs, which is less interesting than having alternating brushed and mirror finished surfaces. The rationale for this finish is likely the design inspiration for today’s Da Vinci: its namesake of 1985 that was similarly shaped and also entirely polished (save for uncommon examples in steel that were entirely brushed).

While every year’s Laureus edition is different, all share the same dark blue dial. Varying from a dark to medium blue depending on the light, the dial has a metallic finish that’s easy to like.

Finished with a radial brushing, it has applied numerals, white printing and red accents. Up close, several details stand out. The chapter ring carrying the minute track has a circular grained finish, serving to frame the central portion of the dial. Both chronograph registers have a stamped concentric pattern (or azurage), which is standard for chronograph watches but give the dial texture. And both chronograph sub-dials are also ringed by a metallic border, an element that echoes the hands and numerals.

Positioned at the quarters of the dial, the red accents don’t appear to serve any functional purpose, which can be annoying for a nitpicker, but they make for a pleasing colour palette.

Notably, the numerals on the dial are all of a serif font specific to the IWC Da Vinci fake watch with black strap, right down to the date disc. It evolved from the custom font created specially for the previous generation Da Vinci, which had significant attention put into its conception but nonetheless ended up a chunky, tonneau-shaped watch that did not sell well. Fortunately the new Da Vinci sticks to a tried and tested shape, while preserving the unusual font that’s a mix of classical and contemporary.

Being white, the date disc is jarring against the blue dial with a somewhat odd position – a consequence of the movement size relative to the case – but at least preserves the symmetry of the dial.

In the tradition of the Laureus watches, the solid back is decorated with an etched reproduction of a child’s drawing. Every year the Laureus foundation – which has both IWC and Mercedes-Benz as sponsors – runs a contest to select a drawing for the following year’s limited edition wristwatch. Last year’s content was won by Hou Ye, a 12-year old from Shanghai who’s a Paralympian at the Special Olympics East Asia. Ye’s winning entry is a self portrait showing him on skis.

Underneath the back is the calibre 89361, part of the 89000-calibre family of movements. Positioned as IWC’s upper-end chronograph movement, the calibre 89361 has a solid list of features.

That includes all the bells and whistles expected in a mid- to high-end chronograph movement, namely a vertical clutch, column wheel, and also a useful 68-hour power reserve. Additionally, it has a flyback function, as well as the hour and minute counters being co-axial on the register at 12 o’clock, explaining the relatively clean dial. Also worth mentioning are the free-sprung balance as well as IWC’s own Pellaton winding mechanism.

The movement is the primary reason this costs what it does. In contrast, IWC’s entry-level chronograph movement, which is based on the economical Valjoux 7750, is found in the new Ingenieur and that costs a third less than the Da Vinci.

That being said, it’s probable that IWC will introduce a cheap replica IWC Da Vinci chronograph in the regular collection in the near future (think steel case paired with a silver or grey dial), which will cost less than the Laureus limited edition.